It wasn’t the first time I had touched down in Taiwan. In fact after having already visited this country twice I was quite used the layout of the airport. The first time had only been a stop over for twenty-four hours at hotel while I waited for a connection flight as I made my way to Japan. The second had been months earlier waiting for eleven hours for my flight back to Sydney. The difference this time around was that I would be staying in Taiwan for a month with Ya Ling, who at the time was my girlfriend, and now remains a great friend.
The two of us spent a majority of our time together travelling all over the country from Northern Taiwan down the very most southern tip which was made famous only last year in a movie called ‘Cape No.7.’ We met a lot of great and interesting people and also made some new friends who I am still in regular contact with.
We celebrated Ya Ling’s Birthday during the first week and stayed in Taipei for quite some time. The days were passed by going to theme parks, sky scrapers like the Taipei 101 or an 85 story hotel called ‘The Splendor’ in Kaohsiung to the south and just keeping ourselves busy exploring. I was even able to experience my first cyclone or ‘Typhoon’ as they are known in Taiwan, while we stayed at the beach town of Kending. Even though the beach wasn’t open for most of the week it was worth seeing the huge storm roll in over the ocean and riding on scooters, go-karts and swimming when we could. I even had the pleasure of falling off a motorbike while in riding in Kending. Admittedly I was being a cocky bastard, so I guess I had it coming to me, but a few cuts, bruises and $80 later and I have a good story to tell.
Taiwan actually led me to several strange and unique experiences. At one point I was confused for a millionaire foreigner and asked to make a speech to the graduates at Ya Ling’s graduation. I denied the request and tried to explain the situation to them with the extremely little broken Chinese I knew, but much to Ya Ling’s embarrassment I spent the remaining two hours on stage and was presented as some big shot from some university in the U.S. Go me! I always manage to get myself into some interesting predicament… I love my life!
We spent several days’ in Ya Ling’s home with her family. It was interesting to see their culture and how normal families in Taiwan live, but mostly it was awkward and humorous. They cooked huge meals for me and I ate a variety of different foods, from hearts, livers, kidneys to things like hooves and anus. Actually… Anus wasn’t so bad. They were really nice to me and I’m really grateful for all their hospitality. Her father actually had two electric guitars in his room and we had a bit of a jam one night in front of his friends and Ya Ling’s family. I think I made a good impression on them.
In all honesty there are so many experiences and events that happened while I was in Taiwan I can’t recall them. Each time I type one thing it triggers one more memory and I get a truly nostalgic feeling in the pit of my stomach.
For the most part every time I write on here I get that same feeling, and have since I began writing this blog two years ago when I first arrived in Japan. I’ve always enjoyed writing for others and telling my stories of what I do, where I go and who I meet. That is why I feel a little sad to announce this will be my last post on this particular blog. After this post I will be beginning a new blog, in which I’ll detail my life and all that goes on for the next three years. From what I can tell my life is going to change dramatically soon, and like always it will be a hell of a roller coaster ride, so I hope that you can all join me.
Thanks to everyone who has read my blog, and keeps upto date with where I am and what I do. I hope too see you soon on my new blog – The Three Year Dreamer.
Sunday 10 January 2010
Wednesday 9 December 2009
Singapore - Without The Rash!
There is one kilometre bridge that serves as a border between Malaysia and Singapore. The time to cross the bridge is relatively, and it’s fairly insignificant, the change in countries is so dramatic it was possible to distinguish them just by looking out of the coach window. One of first things I noticed was the cleanliness of Singapore. While Malaysia was old, dirty and over run with the combination of pollution interspersed with vegetation Singapore was the exact opposite. It was clean, tidy and generally the landscape had an air of organization about it. The ground was spotless, and rubbish seemed to present absolutely zero problems in anyway.
After a brief stop off at the border check point I began to get my first glimpses of the city that made up what most people would consider make up Singapore. Like any other city it there were buildings, traffic, people but it lacked something. There was no graffiti, no rubbish and from what I could judge at the time there was no crime. Unlike other cities I had gone to there were no teenage delinquents hanging around on the street, or homeless people sleeping on park benches. In fact I don’t recall seeing any buskers or people asking me “Do you have a spare cigarette?” or even begging me for money during the entire week I was in Singapore. It was incredibly different from what I knew I would experience in Melbourne.
When my bus arrived at the depot I had no idea where I was or how to get too the hostel Clayrene had written down for me. So I flagged down the first taxi I saw and politely asked him to take me to the hostel on Lavender Road.
1 minute and 30 seconds later we arrived.
It was a basic hostel, but it would do for the week… Actually in retrospect it was nicer then any other hostel I had stayed in so far. It had free internet and computers, breakfast supplied every morning (so much toast) and air con… This was turned on at 8pm and turned off at 7am. I found a bed, put my pack away into the locker and decided it was time for some much anticipated exploration. I found Singapore one of the safest places I have visited, and not once was I concerned about being robbed or followed like I had in most other places. That little bump of trouble that I usually felt in a dodgy situation was pretty much non-existent in this city. It was good to have a rest from that feeling of uncertainty
Except for the day when I was drugged up on medication from the doctor my time was spent outside exploring the city in the heat. On the first day I travelled to Singapore Zoo which was brilliant. Not only was it so big that most people had to catch a shuttle bus around the enclosures but it had a huge variety of animals and the holding areas they lived in were really nice. Unlike other Zoos I’ve seen this place actually treated the animals with some respect which was nice too see. I even managed to see the Elephant show which was impressive. Watch an elephant pick up a log and throw it fifteen meters is pretty awesome. I mean I could do it… I just don’t want to right now. I was disappointed that I didn’t plan better and go to the night time Safari but in all honesty I doubt I could have afforded it. Singapore cost me more then I planned from the moment I stepped off the bus.
I spent one day exploring China town and its surrounding areas. After taking off my shoes I was able to enter a temple and see a really nice ceremony take place. I even managed to get some photos with out being charged for them, and I don’t think any one really cared I was doing it. They actually seemed happy a foreigner was taking an interest in their culture. There were two men, one playing a drum and another type of flute. The sound they made was incredible, and didn’t stop to rest once. Even after I left forty-five minutes later the two men continued to play, beads of sweat cascading over their faces.
A full day was taken up by exploring Orchard road and all the shops the area had to offer. There were some good deals here and there, and had I had more room to buy things I would most certainly have done so. I enjoyed buying some doughnuts I had watched freshly made only minutes before, and washed them down with a really thick milkshake from the store next door. I spent some time in borders that afternoon and bought some new novels to keep me busy while I travelled or at night when I had little to do. I even managed to piss of a taxi driver when I absent minded stepped into a cab that was second in line for customers at a waiting point. The guy who drove me back didn’t care, he liked the fact I had chosen his taxi for two reasons. Firstly he would be getting the fare, and secondly he could practise his English with me. His English wasn’t great but his constant remarks of “F**k that other arsehole!” and “You’re a f**king aussie!” kept me amused for over half an hour. I wished I had chosen to go further with him; he would have made my days very entertaining.
I took the insanely efficient subway to a shopping centre at the edge of the harbour the next day, and then boarded a monorail to Sentosa Island – Tourist Magnet Extraordinaire! What can I say? It was busy and expensive. I used my morning in Underwater World surrounded by school kids who had picked this particular day for an excursion, and then in the afternoon I wasted my money on rides I swear I had been on at Movie World in Queensland. Ok, so it was a waste of time and well earned cash, but it was the experience that counts right? Regardless I was glad when I had taken the monorail back to the air conditioned shopping centre and could eat some nice cheap McDonalds for lunch.
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On the final day before I would fly to Taiwan I took the subway down to the harbour side. I’m not sure how far I walked that day… But it was a long distance, even by my standards. First I visited Singapore’s acclaimed mascot, the Merlion. A huge statue consisting of half a lion and half a mermaid it shoots water into the harbour and attracts hundreds every day. I’m not sure of the story and origin behind it, but it was pretty unique I must say. After spending some time recovering from my walk to the Merlion along the harbour I began an arduous journey to the Singapore Eye also known as a really big Ferris wheel. Only this one had air-conditioned capsules that hold thirty people at a time and takes close to forty-five minutes to complete. It was a good way to rest and take in some great views of Singapore that you wouldn’t find anywhere else in the country, even if I did have kids keep putting their heads in front of my lens or asking “Can we listen to your English music?” It was a nice way to finish off my time in Singapore.
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The next day I woke early and took a taxi driven by a well mannered man whose English was impeccable. He had travelled all over the world and was interested to hear about my year in Japan, which I was more then happy to share. He wished me the best for my time in Taiwan, which he had recently visited, and I was once again off towards a new an unknown country. This time I would meet my girlfriend at the time Ya Ling and spend an entire month travelling the country. I could hardly wait to get on the plane.
After a brief stop off at the border check point I began to get my first glimpses of the city that made up what most people would consider make up Singapore. Like any other city it there were buildings, traffic, people but it lacked something. There was no graffiti, no rubbish and from what I could judge at the time there was no crime. Unlike other cities I had gone to there were no teenage delinquents hanging around on the street, or homeless people sleeping on park benches. In fact I don’t recall seeing any buskers or people asking me “Do you have a spare cigarette?” or even begging me for money during the entire week I was in Singapore. It was incredibly different from what I knew I would experience in Melbourne.
When my bus arrived at the depot I had no idea where I was or how to get too the hostel Clayrene had written down for me. So I flagged down the first taxi I saw and politely asked him to take me to the hostel on Lavender Road.
1 minute and 30 seconds later we arrived.
It was a basic hostel, but it would do for the week… Actually in retrospect it was nicer then any other hostel I had stayed in so far. It had free internet and computers, breakfast supplied every morning (so much toast) and air con… This was turned on at 8pm and turned off at 7am. I found a bed, put my pack away into the locker and decided it was time for some much anticipated exploration. I found Singapore one of the safest places I have visited, and not once was I concerned about being robbed or followed like I had in most other places. That little bump of trouble that I usually felt in a dodgy situation was pretty much non-existent in this city. It was good to have a rest from that feeling of uncertainty
Except for the day when I was drugged up on medication from the doctor my time was spent outside exploring the city in the heat. On the first day I travelled to Singapore Zoo which was brilliant. Not only was it so big that most people had to catch a shuttle bus around the enclosures but it had a huge variety of animals and the holding areas they lived in were really nice. Unlike other Zoos I’ve seen this place actually treated the animals with some respect which was nice too see. I even managed to see the Elephant show which was impressive. Watch an elephant pick up a log and throw it fifteen meters is pretty awesome. I mean I could do it… I just don’t want to right now. I was disappointed that I didn’t plan better and go to the night time Safari but in all honesty I doubt I could have afforded it. Singapore cost me more then I planned from the moment I stepped off the bus.
I spent one day exploring China town and its surrounding areas. After taking off my shoes I was able to enter a temple and see a really nice ceremony take place. I even managed to get some photos with out being charged for them, and I don’t think any one really cared I was doing it. They actually seemed happy a foreigner was taking an interest in their culture. There were two men, one playing a drum and another type of flute. The sound they made was incredible, and didn’t stop to rest once. Even after I left forty-five minutes later the two men continued to play, beads of sweat cascading over their faces.
A full day was taken up by exploring Orchard road and all the shops the area had to offer. There were some good deals here and there, and had I had more room to buy things I would most certainly have done so. I enjoyed buying some doughnuts I had watched freshly made only minutes before, and washed them down with a really thick milkshake from the store next door. I spent some time in borders that afternoon and bought some new novels to keep me busy while I travelled or at night when I had little to do. I even managed to piss of a taxi driver when I absent minded stepped into a cab that was second in line for customers at a waiting point. The guy who drove me back didn’t care, he liked the fact I had chosen his taxi for two reasons. Firstly he would be getting the fare, and secondly he could practise his English with me. His English wasn’t great but his constant remarks of “F**k that other arsehole!” and “You’re a f**king aussie!” kept me amused for over half an hour. I wished I had chosen to go further with him; he would have made my days very entertaining.
I took the insanely efficient subway to a shopping centre at the edge of the harbour the next day, and then boarded a monorail to Sentosa Island – Tourist Magnet Extraordinaire! What can I say? It was busy and expensive. I used my morning in Underwater World surrounded by school kids who had picked this particular day for an excursion, and then in the afternoon I wasted my money on rides I swear I had been on at Movie World in Queensland. Ok, so it was a waste of time and well earned cash, but it was the experience that counts right? Regardless I was glad when I had taken the monorail back to the air conditioned shopping centre and could eat some nice cheap McDonalds for lunch.
+077.jpg)
On the final day before I would fly to Taiwan I took the subway down to the harbour side. I’m not sure how far I walked that day… But it was a long distance, even by my standards. First I visited Singapore’s acclaimed mascot, the Merlion. A huge statue consisting of half a lion and half a mermaid it shoots water into the harbour and attracts hundreds every day. I’m not sure of the story and origin behind it, but it was pretty unique I must say. After spending some time recovering from my walk to the Merlion along the harbour I began an arduous journey to the Singapore Eye also known as a really big Ferris wheel. Only this one had air-conditioned capsules that hold thirty people at a time and takes close to forty-five minutes to complete. It was a good way to rest and take in some great views of Singapore that you wouldn’t find anywhere else in the country, even if I did have kids keep putting their heads in front of my lens or asking “Can we listen to your English music?” It was a nice way to finish off my time in Singapore.
+156.jpg)
The next day I woke early and took a taxi driven by a well mannered man whose English was impeccable. He had travelled all over the world and was interested to hear about my year in Japan, which I was more then happy to share. He wished me the best for my time in Taiwan, which he had recently visited, and I was once again off towards a new an unknown country. This time I would meet my girlfriend at the time Ya Ling and spend an entire month travelling the country. I could hardly wait to get on the plane.
Sunday 8 November 2009
Kulang!
That final night in Taman Negara was nice. The weather didn’t turn to torrential rain like it had most nights and we had new visitors come to stay in our room. One was a short haired German guy who first walked into the room covered from head to toes, a ten day old stubble and a stench that could could only be possible if you lived in a universe where soap and water didn't exist. I soon found out that he had in fact not showered for nearly eight days as he had been out hiking in the jungle on one of the more expensive expeditions to the highest point in Taman Negara. From his photos it looked like awesome fun and I wish I had seen some of the sights he had, but at the same time I was glad I didn't smell like Oscar the Grouch.
He went about cleaning himself up and showering, and as he did so two new girls walked into the room. This time they were French Swedish girls. They were pleasant on the eyes; both being about 28 years old and I immediately started talking to them in English. One was more fluent and did most of the talking. Similar to me she had worked in Japan for the past 2 – 3 years as a graphic designer. We joked around in Japanese, talked about how much we missed the language, teh culture, eating Japanese food and the country in general. The two girls were using the savings they had made over the passed years to do one final trip around the world before settling down in their home country for good.
We all left for dinner separately, and didn’t have much else to do with each other… Or so I thought at the time. I slept well that night and don’t remember waking once during the course of the night. It was possibly the best I had had in the past few weeks. However when I woke up the next morning to leave I was met by Matt who looked tired, niggly and red eyed. I asked him if had a good sleep and he thought I was trying to take the piss out of him.
Turns out while I had slept, the German guy from the night before, and the less fluent English speaking girs had been bumping uglies in the bunk above me. I’m not sure but while it may have kept Matt awake, I’m persuaded that the gentle rocking was reason I slept like a baby that night.
We took a three hour boat ride down the river back to Geruntut. It was pleasant and there was more to see then when we had caught the bus. When we arrived back in the town I wanted to get out of there quickly, so after a brief stop off at KFC for some deep friend chicken and a side of rice we walked to the station. I booked tickets to a town called Kulang to meet my friend Clayrene who lived in Malaysia, and while I invited Matt he was suspicious and booked tickets all the way to Singapore. Finally after four weeks we would go out separate ways and I would have to continue exploring alone… Yay!
After a long and tedious train ride I arrived in Kulang to be greeted by Clayrene and her friend. The town wasn’t very big, and from what I was told there was very little to do, but I think I had more fun there then anyone else. Originally I was only going to stay three days, but I ended up staying for five days in a hotel with air conditioning, a television, working toilets AND showers, and a comfortable double bed. It's amazing how after being with the same person for so long finally having time to yourself feels like an intensely satisfying freedom.
Clayrene drove me to places in her town. We went out to dinner and ate a lot of local food with her friends. She even took me to the cinemas where I saw “Angels and Demons” one night, then the next we watched “Night at the Museum 2.” I have to admit the '300' take off tickled my fancy, I couldn't stop laughing. I met a lot of new friends, and we went to karaoke and to Kulang’s only night club together for a bit of dancing to the live music. When Clayrene was busy I would walk to the local shopping centre myself, or go to pig out of good old reliable McDonalds which was open 24 hours just near my hotel. I was possibly the only white person in that town at the time, and on one occasion actually got politely asked to stop in the shopping centre by two girls so they could take a photo with me. I’m sure when I’m rich and famous I’ll get sick and tired of girls swooning towards me… But right now I’ll take what I can.
On my final day I woke up with my infamous rash covering my entire body, but even with that turn of events I had more fun in Kulang with Clayrene in those five days then I had in three weeks with my previous travel companion. I’m really grateful for her helping me out, taking me to so many places and letting me meet her friends. She is studying in Singapore now, and I'm dying to go back there, so maybe I'll be able to see her again soon.
He went about cleaning himself up and showering, and as he did so two new girls walked into the room. This time they were French Swedish girls. They were pleasant on the eyes; both being about 28 years old and I immediately started talking to them in English. One was more fluent and did most of the talking. Similar to me she had worked in Japan for the past 2 – 3 years as a graphic designer. We joked around in Japanese, talked about how much we missed the language, teh culture, eating Japanese food and the country in general. The two girls were using the savings they had made over the passed years to do one final trip around the world before settling down in their home country for good.
We all left for dinner separately, and didn’t have much else to do with each other… Or so I thought at the time. I slept well that night and don’t remember waking once during the course of the night. It was possibly the best I had had in the past few weeks. However when I woke up the next morning to leave I was met by Matt who looked tired, niggly and red eyed. I asked him if had a good sleep and he thought I was trying to take the piss out of him.
Turns out while I had slept, the German guy from the night before, and the less fluent English speaking girs had been bumping uglies in the bunk above me. I’m not sure but while it may have kept Matt awake, I’m persuaded that the gentle rocking was reason I slept like a baby that night.
We took a three hour boat ride down the river back to Geruntut. It was pleasant and there was more to see then when we had caught the bus. When we arrived back in the town I wanted to get out of there quickly, so after a brief stop off at KFC for some deep friend chicken and a side of rice we walked to the station. I booked tickets to a town called Kulang to meet my friend Clayrene who lived in Malaysia, and while I invited Matt he was suspicious and booked tickets all the way to Singapore. Finally after four weeks we would go out separate ways and I would have to continue exploring alone… Yay!
After a long and tedious train ride I arrived in Kulang to be greeted by Clayrene and her friend. The town wasn’t very big, and from what I was told there was very little to do, but I think I had more fun there then anyone else. Originally I was only going to stay three days, but I ended up staying for five days in a hotel with air conditioning, a television, working toilets AND showers, and a comfortable double bed. It's amazing how after being with the same person for so long finally having time to yourself feels like an intensely satisfying freedom.
Clayrene drove me to places in her town. We went out to dinner and ate a lot of local food with her friends. She even took me to the cinemas where I saw “Angels and Demons” one night, then the next we watched “Night at the Museum 2.” I have to admit the '300' take off tickled my fancy, I couldn't stop laughing. I met a lot of new friends, and we went to karaoke and to Kulang’s only night club together for a bit of dancing to the live music. When Clayrene was busy I would walk to the local shopping centre myself, or go to pig out of good old reliable McDonalds which was open 24 hours just near my hotel. I was possibly the only white person in that town at the time, and on one occasion actually got politely asked to stop in the shopping centre by two girls so they could take a photo with me. I’m sure when I’m rich and famous I’ll get sick and tired of girls swooning towards me… But right now I’ll take what I can.
On my final day I woke up with my infamous rash covering my entire body, but even with that turn of events I had more fun in Kulang with Clayrene in those five days then I had in three weeks with my previous travel companion. I’m really grateful for her helping me out, taking me to so many places and letting me meet her friends. She is studying in Singapore now, and I'm dying to go back there, so maybe I'll be able to see her again soon.
Thursday 15 October 2009
Jungle, rivers, boats... and a big arse Ghost Tiger!
The train ride to Geruntut was boring. I had watched the jungle and the old looking villages pass by for some time, but the sun quickly set and everything grew dark. I’m not the kind of person to sleep much while travelling so instead I spent the nearly eleven hour trip reading a novel from start to finish.
By time we had arrived in Geruntut and left the train it was close to 2am. I wanted to find a hostel quickly and fall into the sleep of the dead. Luckily for us a bus driver from a hotel was waiting at the station and said he’d shuttle us up to decent hostel. It was easy and quick, and I actually managed to get some sleep the boiling hot room that night.
The next day we walked to the local tourist centre with our packs and booked a bus to a place called Taman Negara – Malaysia biggest and most untouched national park. It was required we buy a park permit, entrance permit, camera permit, blah, blah, blah. I knew we wouldn’t be asked to show it again… and guess what? I was! Essentially for the next three days we would live in the jungle… Well we thought that at the time. We spent the time waiting on the internet, sending mail back home and just checking out news from the rest of the world. Then our bus turned up. I had thought we would travel by coach, but instead we stepped up into a Toyota Hiace van and along with a kiwi couple we were off.
I have driven Hiace vans before at work… and I was unaware they could move so fast. The trip which we had been told would take us 2-3 hours took us little more then 1 hour. The kiwi guy who we had started talking to glanced at the speedometer at one point and looked back at us a little panic striken. He mouthed to us “140km/h,” I knew we were moving fast but I never had any idea a van like that could move so fast.
When we arrived at Taman Negara the raining was pounding down. A bit of rain didn’t bother me but I was disorientated. I didn’t know where we would stay, so we found some shelter until it passed and Matt who didn’t want to walk with his incredibly heavy pack said he would sit down and watch our things. I went looking to see where there were vacancies. It took me an hour of searching and I found nothing, only a four bed room, and a double bed room that was full of mosquitoes. On my way back to meet with Matt I ran into the Kiwi guy from the bus and we decided to share the four bed room with him and his girlfriend. The four of us weren’t pleased with the room or the price we paid. There were bugs, moist spots, it was hot, there was no running water and the toilets were out of order. It was for one night we told ourselves, and the next day we would find somewhere else, and we did. For the remainder of our time we shacked up in a 12 bed room, which wasn’t overly private but provided some relief from bugs and the heat… as well as toilets that actually flushed.
The only place to buy food similar to the islands was small family owned restaurants which floated atop pontoons on the river. Morning, noon and night we would head down there and choose something from the menu. I was happy to try everything, and my favourite item on the menu was actually the tuna and cheese sandwich. It was much safer then the Green Curry I had ordered which I thoroughly enjoyed… Until I found a dead wasp mixed through it. I can say for certain that wasn’t part of the recipe.
The national forest was home to some cool activities. The first day we were ferried up river on handmade long boats to a native village which was ‘untouched’ by modern man. It was untouched to an extent, however I’m pretty sure children before white settlement didn’t wear Manchester United shirts or jeans cut off at the knees. The tour guide took us through the village and showed us how they hunter, told us about their culture and the rituals and their way of life. Things that I found funny were that teenagers as young as 11 years old could marry and have children, out there is a very different world to what we are used too. The tour guide showed us how they used a type of grass and wood to make fire using a huge amount of friction. He proposed a competition and I was the last to try it… On my first try the block of wood flew up and hit the guide in the face, nearly knocking him out cold. It still state it was his fault for not standing on the wooden block properly. On my second try I became the first person be successful. I’m still waiting for him to give me prize... That tin arse.
On the way back we went rapid shooting and enjoyed the ride as the boats raced and each driver tried to drench the other’s passengers. I was thoroughly saturated by the end, because for some reason the group of Japanese riding with us thought it would be hilarious if I was wet for days. Later that night we went on a jungle safari. It was hilarious to me when a Ute rocked up with two wood planks in the back tray acting as seats. The ride was rough and the wild life was pretty quiet. We saw a small cat like creature, and apparently a snake. All in all, the most fun was driving in the back of the Ute for three hours and trying not to fall out.
Besides the occasional monkey laughing from the trees on the opposite of the river bank wildlife in Taman Negara seemed very scarce. It wasn’t until the next day when we took part in a cave exploration group that I finally realized how deep in the jungle we were. Our tour guide who went by the name of Eko led us through the jungle for about 2kms. It was muddy and slippery; however it only took us about half an hour. As we arrived at the cave entrance Eko told us to leave our packs and belongings behind if wanted to keep them. It seems trivial and a bit suspicious but I did that, all I took with me was SLR… And while I got some cool photos I should have left it behind.
As we climbed in the cave I thought how scary this would be for a person carrying a few extra kilos. I remember crawling through spaces that barely accommodated for my shoulder width, putting my shoes, hands and feet in water to crawl under the low ceiling, grabbing onto rocks that were slippery with bat shit and at times thinking to my self if I had no torch, I would never get out. It was funny because Matt who had scoffed at taking a torch was now crawling through the darkness, calling out for light. There thousands of bats flying through the cave, getting caught in our hair and generally pissing us off. As we saw the light and pulled ourselves from the earth I was relieved to see my pack was still there where I had left it and no monkeys had gone looking for the cookies stashed in the bottom of my bag.
We began to walk back, and Eko stopped us and told us to gather around. When we got closer he showed us a giant foot print similar to the size of a small dinner plate.
“That,” he told us, “is the foot print of the white ghost tiger that haunts this jungle. It killed my father, my mother… and I fear some day it will kill me.”
Poor bastard, I don't like his chances. That tiger is after his family… and he walks around the jungle giving idiots like us tours. Some advice Eko… Get a job in the city!!
By time we had arrived in Geruntut and left the train it was close to 2am. I wanted to find a hostel quickly and fall into the sleep of the dead. Luckily for us a bus driver from a hotel was waiting at the station and said he’d shuttle us up to decent hostel. It was easy and quick, and I actually managed to get some sleep the boiling hot room that night.
The next day we walked to the local tourist centre with our packs and booked a bus to a place called Taman Negara – Malaysia biggest and most untouched national park. It was required we buy a park permit, entrance permit, camera permit, blah, blah, blah. I knew we wouldn’t be asked to show it again… and guess what? I was! Essentially for the next three days we would live in the jungle… Well we thought that at the time. We spent the time waiting on the internet, sending mail back home and just checking out news from the rest of the world. Then our bus turned up. I had thought we would travel by coach, but instead we stepped up into a Toyota Hiace van and along with a kiwi couple we were off.
I have driven Hiace vans before at work… and I was unaware they could move so fast. The trip which we had been told would take us 2-3 hours took us little more then 1 hour. The kiwi guy who we had started talking to glanced at the speedometer at one point and looked back at us a little panic striken. He mouthed to us “140km/h,” I knew we were moving fast but I never had any idea a van like that could move so fast.
When we arrived at Taman Negara the raining was pounding down. A bit of rain didn’t bother me but I was disorientated. I didn’t know where we would stay, so we found some shelter until it passed and Matt who didn’t want to walk with his incredibly heavy pack said he would sit down and watch our things. I went looking to see where there were vacancies. It took me an hour of searching and I found nothing, only a four bed room, and a double bed room that was full of mosquitoes. On my way back to meet with Matt I ran into the Kiwi guy from the bus and we decided to share the four bed room with him and his girlfriend. The four of us weren’t pleased with the room or the price we paid. There were bugs, moist spots, it was hot, there was no running water and the toilets were out of order. It was for one night we told ourselves, and the next day we would find somewhere else, and we did. For the remainder of our time we shacked up in a 12 bed room, which wasn’t overly private but provided some relief from bugs and the heat… as well as toilets that actually flushed.
The only place to buy food similar to the islands was small family owned restaurants which floated atop pontoons on the river. Morning, noon and night we would head down there and choose something from the menu. I was happy to try everything, and my favourite item on the menu was actually the tuna and cheese sandwich. It was much safer then the Green Curry I had ordered which I thoroughly enjoyed… Until I found a dead wasp mixed through it. I can say for certain that wasn’t part of the recipe.
The national forest was home to some cool activities. The first day we were ferried up river on handmade long boats to a native village which was ‘untouched’ by modern man. It was untouched to an extent, however I’m pretty sure children before white settlement didn’t wear Manchester United shirts or jeans cut off at the knees. The tour guide took us through the village and showed us how they hunter, told us about their culture and the rituals and their way of life. Things that I found funny were that teenagers as young as 11 years old could marry and have children, out there is a very different world to what we are used too. The tour guide showed us how they used a type of grass and wood to make fire using a huge amount of friction. He proposed a competition and I was the last to try it… On my first try the block of wood flew up and hit the guide in the face, nearly knocking him out cold. It still state it was his fault for not standing on the wooden block properly. On my second try I became the first person be successful. I’m still waiting for him to give me prize... That tin arse.
On the way back we went rapid shooting and enjoyed the ride as the boats raced and each driver tried to drench the other’s passengers. I was thoroughly saturated by the end, because for some reason the group of Japanese riding with us thought it would be hilarious if I was wet for days. Later that night we went on a jungle safari. It was hilarious to me when a Ute rocked up with two wood planks in the back tray acting as seats. The ride was rough and the wild life was pretty quiet. We saw a small cat like creature, and apparently a snake. All in all, the most fun was driving in the back of the Ute for three hours and trying not to fall out.
Besides the occasional monkey laughing from the trees on the opposite of the river bank wildlife in Taman Negara seemed very scarce. It wasn’t until the next day when we took part in a cave exploration group that I finally realized how deep in the jungle we were. Our tour guide who went by the name of Eko led us through the jungle for about 2kms. It was muddy and slippery; however it only took us about half an hour. As we arrived at the cave entrance Eko told us to leave our packs and belongings behind if wanted to keep them. It seems trivial and a bit suspicious but I did that, all I took with me was SLR… And while I got some cool photos I should have left it behind.
As we climbed in the cave I thought how scary this would be for a person carrying a few extra kilos. I remember crawling through spaces that barely accommodated for my shoulder width, putting my shoes, hands and feet in water to crawl under the low ceiling, grabbing onto rocks that were slippery with bat shit and at times thinking to my self if I had no torch, I would never get out. It was funny because Matt who had scoffed at taking a torch was now crawling through the darkness, calling out for light. There thousands of bats flying through the cave, getting caught in our hair and generally pissing us off. As we saw the light and pulled ourselves from the earth I was relieved to see my pack was still there where I had left it and no monkeys had gone looking for the cookies stashed in the bottom of my bag.
We began to walk back, and Eko stopped us and told us to gather around. When we got closer he showed us a giant foot print similar to the size of a small dinner plate.
“That,” he told us, “is the foot print of the white ghost tiger that haunts this jungle. It killed my father, my mother… and I fear some day it will kill me.”
Poor bastard, I don't like his chances. That tiger is after his family… and he walks around the jungle giving idiots like us tours. Some advice Eko… Get a job in the city!!
Kota Bahru and a little of the map...
So the last I had left you, I had hitched a boat ride to the beautiful Perhentian Island. Sticking to my word, after three days I wanted to leave island and go to our next destination. We took a less turbulent boat ride back to the fishing town we had departed from and along the way discussed our plans regarding how we would actually make it to Kota Bahru. We decided the best course of action would be to take another coach from the fishing town to the only all Muslim city in Malaysia.
As we stepped off the boat and began to walk back towards the bus terminal we had seen three day’s earlier we heard a man running calling out to us and quickly running up behind. When he had finally caught our attention and we turned to greet him, rather the being a Malay looking to rip us off he was short Caucasian who I quickly remembered from the island. He admitted to us he had overheard our conversation and in his very characteristic Spanish accent persuaded us to catch a taxi with him to Kota Bahru. He made a fair point; it would be faster, easier and cheaper if the three of us shared a cab fair.
We hailed down the first disgruntled taxi driver we could see and bargained with him to take us for 50MR. Really cheap considering the previous bus ride had cost us near on 50MR per person. The taxi ride was enjoyable as we talked to the Spanish guy whose name I regrettably forgot. He told us he lived in Thailand with his wife and was just jumping the border for his three monthly visa renewal, so he had decided to take a small break and go diving for a week. He was genuinely a good guy, and it was a shame to leave him when my travelling companion decided the hostel he wanted to stay in was far to expensive… even if it was millions of years ahead of the one we stayed at.
By the time we had found an ‘appropriate’ hostel and dumped our luggage in our room I was pretty fed up with my friend, and decided that soon I would go my own way and make my own journey. Even now as I look at the small collection of notes I took at every place I visited I can’t help but notice…and giggle at some of the pictures I drew and forgot about or the comment I have written and not reread until now. I can’t imagine what I would have said and sounded like.
The next few days we spent walking around and exploring. I had already begun to start my own experience. He went off and did his own thing, and I did mine. The stinking heat drove me into the air conditioned shopping centre on two days but I was fine with that, having not felt cold air for nearly one week or more. I spent my days looking in the shops, reading the surprisingly extensive collection of English books at book store and ordering McDonalds while the girls behind the counter giggled and looked, and I can only imagine, saying things like “Oh my god! Look at the white guy… He’s the first we’ve ever seen!” At nights we would head down the markets or walk around the streets. It was quite amazing to watch an entire city and drop to it’s knees before you when prayer time rolled around each day. Usually we would just stand there looking awkward or sit, some where out of view so we wouldn’t get stared out or judged for not following their culture. It was a pretty cool sight I must admit and really insightful to the going ons of other people around the world.
At the tourist centre we met a funny little man who had once lived in Melbourne. He told us he spent eleven years in South Yarra with a lady twenty-five years his senior that he met travelling. He lived with her, ate her cooking and apparently never got asked to or offered to pay her for her hospitality. Me thinks he was paying her in ‘unconventional ways’ but I didn’t care to ask him if this was true or not. This guy spoke the entire conversation in pseudo-Australian accent and thew it phrases like “she’ll be right,” “no worries,” or “G’day mate” at the most inappropriate times. After some time it became quite annoying and difficult to follow the point of the conversation.
On the final day after failing to understand what coach we need to take to get to our next town we decided to take a public bus. It was crowded and hot. We didn’t buy a ticket and got to ride for free… But don’t tell the bus driver that. Karma is a bitch though, and we missed our stop (the Tamput Train Station) by about twenty kilometres. However, when we did stop it was out the front of one of Malaysia’s biggest attractions: The Sitting Buddha.
More or less it’s one of three temples with a giant statue of Buddha sitting on top of it. The other two have a reclining budda and a kneeling Buddha… I think, I never actually got to see the other two. Inside the temple building are small statues and brilliant artworks depicting scenes that I couldn’t totally understand or comprehend. Images of demons attacking and killing humans and ferocious beasts going about their nasty business were the main theme… with Buddha coming to save the day I presume. It was pretty interesting I’ll admit, if not strange and creepy.
After our slight detour, we did eventually leave the temple and waited about an hour to catch a taxi. We told him we wanted to go to Tamput Station. It was in a word… quiet. Friday is the national day of rest in Malaysia, but this was scary quiet. Not a soul. We bought our tickets and ventured about 1 kilometre into the town to buy some food, but chances were slim. Every shop was closed except for one family owned restaurant and a small general store. I bought some food for the ten hour train ride we were going to take, and then sat at the restraint to order some food. It was very funny because I honestly believe were the first white people to visit the town in a very long time.
When we entered the restaraunt the young serving girls, who were obviously all sisters, watched us with amazement, until their mother came out smiled to them and told them to go away. When they came back they were each wearing a Hijab. They were very happy and the eldest daughter who could speak some English helped us order and talked to us a little. Asking where we were from, what we did for a living, and in typical fashion if we had a girlfriend. It was a nice way to end our time in Kota Bahru and its surrounding areas.
As 3pm rolled around we said our goodbyes and attempted to tell them in Malay that the food was great. We got on the train and went into our individual sleeping berths and for the next ten hours tried to sleep as we made our way to Geruntut.
As we stepped off the boat and began to walk back towards the bus terminal we had seen three day’s earlier we heard a man running calling out to us and quickly running up behind. When he had finally caught our attention and we turned to greet him, rather the being a Malay looking to rip us off he was short Caucasian who I quickly remembered from the island. He admitted to us he had overheard our conversation and in his very characteristic Spanish accent persuaded us to catch a taxi with him to Kota Bahru. He made a fair point; it would be faster, easier and cheaper if the three of us shared a cab fair.
We hailed down the first disgruntled taxi driver we could see and bargained with him to take us for 50MR. Really cheap considering the previous bus ride had cost us near on 50MR per person. The taxi ride was enjoyable as we talked to the Spanish guy whose name I regrettably forgot. He told us he lived in Thailand with his wife and was just jumping the border for his three monthly visa renewal, so he had decided to take a small break and go diving for a week. He was genuinely a good guy, and it was a shame to leave him when my travelling companion decided the hostel he wanted to stay in was far to expensive… even if it was millions of years ahead of the one we stayed at.
By the time we had found an ‘appropriate’ hostel and dumped our luggage in our room I was pretty fed up with my friend, and decided that soon I would go my own way and make my own journey. Even now as I look at the small collection of notes I took at every place I visited I can’t help but notice…and giggle at some of the pictures I drew and forgot about or the comment I have written and not reread until now. I can’t imagine what I would have said and sounded like.
The next few days we spent walking around and exploring. I had already begun to start my own experience. He went off and did his own thing, and I did mine. The stinking heat drove me into the air conditioned shopping centre on two days but I was fine with that, having not felt cold air for nearly one week or more. I spent my days looking in the shops, reading the surprisingly extensive collection of English books at book store and ordering McDonalds while the girls behind the counter giggled and looked, and I can only imagine, saying things like “Oh my god! Look at the white guy… He’s the first we’ve ever seen!” At nights we would head down the markets or walk around the streets. It was quite amazing to watch an entire city and drop to it’s knees before you when prayer time rolled around each day. Usually we would just stand there looking awkward or sit, some where out of view so we wouldn’t get stared out or judged for not following their culture. It was a pretty cool sight I must admit and really insightful to the going ons of other people around the world.
At the tourist centre we met a funny little man who had once lived in Melbourne. He told us he spent eleven years in South Yarra with a lady twenty-five years his senior that he met travelling. He lived with her, ate her cooking and apparently never got asked to or offered to pay her for her hospitality. Me thinks he was paying her in ‘unconventional ways’ but I didn’t care to ask him if this was true or not. This guy spoke the entire conversation in pseudo-Australian accent and thew it phrases like “she’ll be right,” “no worries,” or “G’day mate” at the most inappropriate times. After some time it became quite annoying and difficult to follow the point of the conversation.
On the final day after failing to understand what coach we need to take to get to our next town we decided to take a public bus. It was crowded and hot. We didn’t buy a ticket and got to ride for free… But don’t tell the bus driver that. Karma is a bitch though, and we missed our stop (the Tamput Train Station) by about twenty kilometres. However, when we did stop it was out the front of one of Malaysia’s biggest attractions: The Sitting Buddha.
More or less it’s one of three temples with a giant statue of Buddha sitting on top of it. The other two have a reclining budda and a kneeling Buddha… I think, I never actually got to see the other two. Inside the temple building are small statues and brilliant artworks depicting scenes that I couldn’t totally understand or comprehend. Images of demons attacking and killing humans and ferocious beasts going about their nasty business were the main theme… with Buddha coming to save the day I presume. It was pretty interesting I’ll admit, if not strange and creepy.
After our slight detour, we did eventually leave the temple and waited about an hour to catch a taxi. We told him we wanted to go to Tamput Station. It was in a word… quiet. Friday is the national day of rest in Malaysia, but this was scary quiet. Not a soul. We bought our tickets and ventured about 1 kilometre into the town to buy some food, but chances were slim. Every shop was closed except for one family owned restaurant and a small general store. I bought some food for the ten hour train ride we were going to take, and then sat at the restraint to order some food. It was very funny because I honestly believe were the first white people to visit the town in a very long time.
When we entered the restaraunt the young serving girls, who were obviously all sisters, watched us with amazement, until their mother came out smiled to them and told them to go away. When they came back they were each wearing a Hijab. They were very happy and the eldest daughter who could speak some English helped us order and talked to us a little. Asking where we were from, what we did for a living, and in typical fashion if we had a girlfriend. It was a nice way to end our time in Kota Bahru and its surrounding areas.
As 3pm rolled around we said our goodbyes and attempted to tell them in Malay that the food was great. We got on the train and went into our individual sleeping berths and for the next ten hours tried to sleep as we made our way to Geruntut.
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